A choice of dessert for a change

Since I was a baby I have had a sweet tooth, to the point where my mother would feed me my pudding before my main in order to get me to eat everything. If I had the choice I would do the same now, or even forgo the formalities of main course and just have three courses of puds. Heaven.

Unfortunately, gluten free desserts are usually a little predictable on restaurant menus and if there is more than crème brulee or ice cream its an exciting night! Nowadays I will scandalously be found choosing a starter over dessert just for interest and to avoid yet another crème brulee. But it must be said that every now and again, as I dive straight to the back of the menu to check out the sweet stuff just in case, I am pleasantly surprised. And, never more so than during lunch at Bob Bob Ricard in London’s Soho yesterday with my dear travelling buddy Kate.

Not only were they confidently competent in dealing with my gluten free requests, but they had a total of eight desserts that were gluten free, not including the chocolate truffles. Eight desserts! What a dream? They included my childhood favourite Knickerbockerglory, plus two seasonal jellies, home made gourmet ice cream, passion fruit pavlova, the ubiquitous crème brulee, home made sorbet, and a flour-less chocolate cake for the less sensitive Coeliacs. And for the health conscious one there was a seasonal fruit plate, and truffles for the very full.

Whilst I would normally have gone the Knickerbockerglory route without question, I was so full from probably the best chicken Caesar salad, fries and coleslaw I have eaten outside of the US that I went for ice cream. I cannot resist salted caramel in any form. Part of a gelato trio with valrohna chocolate and simple vanilla it finished the meal perfectly and came wafer free (for a change)!

But tell me, do you bother with pudding when eating out? Any places to recommend that have great gluten free desserts? Let me know...!

Self Guided Walking Tour of Old Delhi Spice Market

Bleary eyed, sitting in the tiny New Delhi International terminal, I am replaying my three weeks here in my mind, trying to distract myself from falling asleep before boarding my London bound flight. Just like my last trip to India, my absolute favourite experience had to be touring Old Delhi Spice Market. This living, breathing, working market is no show for tourists, and this time I saw how it changes over the seasons, seeing a whole raft of things I have never encountered before.

If you have the chance to visit New Delhi, I really would advise you to contrast it with the Old city, and below is a short self guided tour of Old Delhi Spice Market... but I warn you this is not an experience for the feint hearted.  When we lived in India, we didn’t feel brave enough to venture out there alone, so we were guided round the city of Shah Jahan with tour guide Shilpi, who inducted us to the intricacies and convoluted world of Indian life, including weddings, religions, architecture and customs.  It totally wet my appetite for this bustling and manic place and found a guide in my cookery teacher Amita. I returned numerous times with visitors from home, and love to spend a few hours amongst the throng of people, smells and of course food.

Whilst I would of course recommend using a knowledgeable guide to show you the area, this sometimes doesn’t work out, and rather than miss out on this integral part of Delhi, you could always follow this guide if you are feeling brave... Use it alongside a detailed map of the area.

Khari Baoli, which is the local name for the spice market, pronounced ‘curry bowly’ can be found at the western end of Chandni Chowk, the main high street of Old Delhi, from which many of the different markets can be found.  It is the opposite end to the regal Red Fort (Lal Qila) and the relevant landmark is the Fatehpuri Masjid (Mosque), itself a lovely quiet place to observe daily Muslim life.

Facing the mosques entrance, turn right and follow the corner round to the left walking past rows of narrow shops displaying their point piles of fruits, nuts and seeds. As you round the corner there are a couple of good kitchen equipment merchants. Here you can buy the ubiquitous stainless steel tools of Indian cookery, including the 7 compartment masala dabba (spice box), karhi (Indian woks) and tiffin boxes (stacked lunch boxes).

Carry on this side of the street and the traders will now be selling spices. Cumin, aniseed, Indian cinnamon, cardamom and anything else you could desire. The way these merchant, and actually most shops in India, is you have to ask for what you want. Don’t be shy if on seeing the goods, you don’t want to buy, just politely (in a very English way) move on...more difficult than it sounds I know.  The quality of spices from these wholesalers, who mostly trade in kilograms, is beautiful, and they retail their goods for unbelievable prices. For example, I bought 500g Indian cinnamon sticks for 50 Rupees – not even a £1! So this is the place to stock up as many owners speak excellent English and they happily package into sealed bags.

When you get to a break in the shops on your left, and there should be an archway painted bright blue that between the hours of 10am and 12noon is jammed with people jostling for space as they carry sacks of spices on their heads to waiting buffalo drawn carts or trolleys. This is the entrance to the Gadodia Market – India’s largest wholesale spice market built back in the 1920’s by a local merchant. This large square courtyard lined with tiny alcoves each one housing a spice merchant and his pungent spices has air thick with spice, so you may need to cover your nose to prevent you from sneezing, coughing and crying all the way round.

Be brave and take a look around, it’s a beautiful place, if a little tatty. The market is also up on the first floor, but it is only accessible via very dark precarious steps with men balancing sacks as they walk down the stairs. I am just warning you... but in my view it’s worth the trek. When you are ready to leave the market, head out the way you came in and carry on down the road in the same direction past the pickles sellers, all based on secret family recipes. Keep your eye out for cute canvas bags plastered with Indian advertising, natural loofas, gigantic pumice stones, almond oil, mithai (sweets) and even old fashioned toothbrushes – the things that look like lengths of coarse ribbon, all for sale on the pavement.

There’s plenty to see in the area, and for a more comprehensive guide I would recommend 10 easy walks Old Delhi, Gaynor  Barton and Laurraine Malone (available from Amazon).

A few notes

• 
  
  Khari Baoli and the spice shops are closed on Sunday. The best time to visit this area is at the beginning of the week, around 10am – 12noon before it gets too chaotic.
• 
  
  I get there on the metro getting off at Chandni Chowk stop, walk past the front of the bright orange temple, through the narrow lane past the fabric bazaar and out onto Chandni Chowk. I then either get up to Khari Baoli on a cycle rickshaw for about 20rupess or the little green CNG bus for 5 Rupees. Both are great fun, and the bus gets jam packed with locals and they ALL stare. It is more peaceful and scenic on a rickshaw. On the return ask for the metro and someone will let you know where to get off.
• 
  
  I would suggest to ask for permission from people, especially the merchants before taking photos, just out of courtesy as you are in their place of work. Saying that, you may also be asked to take everyone’s photo... It can go either way.
• 
  
  If you are feeling really brave and hungry, I would recommend the aloo tikki corner shop at the end of the fabric bazaar lane. The little potato parcels are fried in ghee fresh to order and I have sampled them a couple of times (with a hygiene crazy Gastroenterologists wife) and have been fine after consuming. Avoid the chutney and yoghurt if you are worried.
• 
  
  For a fast paced air conditioned drink, snack or meal, Halidrams near the Sikh Gurdwara is a good reliable stop, and you can stock up on Indian Mithai on your way out.

Gluten Free Places to Eat in New Delhi, India Part 2

Following from my introduction to Delhi eating, I will just mention here some of the places you will find in every guide book. I am often a little wary of restaurants that are reviewed in ink, as you often have no idea of the reviewers tastes, which when looking for a restaurant can skew expectations. And so often I have been to places featured in a guide book, to find that they have become complacent and are riding on the back of a positive review some time ago.

The benefit of the internet is being able to share up to date information, so it must be said that all my reviews for India are based on trips from the summer of 2009. These places do feature in the guide books, so do cater to many tourists, however I have included them here if I thought they were worth visiting.

Karim’s – Food cooked by the family from the blood line of chefs who catered to the Mughal emporers with elaborate, rich Persian influenced food, this place is not for the feint hearted. I went to the Nizammudin branch with some Indian friends on my first weekend, after a late night visit to the incredible sufi shrine. The area is home to the city’s muslim community and has a completely different feel compared to most of Delhi. Accordingly, the food at Karim’s featured a lot of lamb and chicken, but don’t expect succulent chunks of meat... its all on the bone for flavour. We had a great time and sampled the famous byriani, one of my favourite dishes, alongside different dals and paneer tikka. For bread eaters out there, make sure you try romali roti – which translates as hankerchief bread, as thin as filow pastry and perfect for mopping the plate (I am informed!).

Chor Bizzare – Found in many guide books this hotel restaurant is a feast for the eyes as well as the taste buds. A random collection of antiquities make up tables, chairs and furniture representing the thief’s bazaar after which it is named. The food is an interesting mix of dishes from across India but make sure you try their specialities from Kashmir and finish your meal with the saffron infused Kashmiri tea, which is rather lovely.

Spice Route – Representing the ancient spice route that traders took from the coast of Kerala across to Thailand and Vietnam, this is a refreshingly different restaurant in the landmark Imperial Hotel (which is worth a visit in itself and openly welcomes non guests to the many bars). To celebrate Jacks birthday, and our last weekend in Delhi, we sampled the light, fragrant food from South India, cooked to perfection, pushing the boat out with our favourite bottle of Californian wine. Apaams, a ground rice pancake thing, were a wonderful gluten free discovery, which came with an incredible south Indian lamb curry to dunk into. We never wanted any of the dishes to end... Maybe that’s why its considered one of the best restaurants in Asia.

Bukhara  - Also considered to be one of Asia’s best restaurants I will tell you now that you can get exactly the same experience at the Sheraton hotel in Agra for a reduced price (book a table so that you can get into the hotel and avoid the awful tourist restaurants that the guides take you to. You’ll thank me for it!). The food is incredible, but simple north Indian food including makhani dal for which they are famous (although I considered the dal at dumphukt to be far superior). A wonderful setting, but it is quite expensive considering the food you get. However saying that on a girly day out to Agra my friend Pip and I were glad of the quiet, clean and air conditioned environment and thoroughly enjoyed our meal.

DumPhukt – Don’t ask me how to pronounce it, but make sure you go to this opulent, classy restaurant also at the Sheraton in Delhi, to sample a whole cuisine which is dum. A very traditional cooking style done over a tandoor in sealed pots, the dishes retain their fragrance and flavour. The dal (actually from the Bukhara menu) cooked dum was possibly my favourite in our whole six months. Another place suitable for a special occasion, we treated my mum to some really good food – forgive me I only recall the dal... what a dal...?!

Gluten Free Places to Eat in New Delhi, India Part 1

As an extension to the London Gluten Free Restaurant guide I have been writing, I decided to let you know about the places I would recommend in New Delhi too, since this has for a time been my home, and food wise still has a warm place in my heart.

Many visitors to the country are forewarned, as I was by my nurse when jabbing me with vaccinations, about the dangers of Delhi belly and all the other horrors of eating abroad, especially in India. I am pleased to report (not something I openly talk about, but feel the need here) to not have gotten sick the whole six months we were living here – for hygiene or gluten reasons. There are of course precautions to be taken, such as drinking only bottled water with a seal broken in front of you (common practice in many restaurants) and use of those bacterial gels or plain old hand washing, since India is a dusty, dirty place. Use common sense, only eat fresh hot food from reputable places and and you should be happy and healthy.

The places below are establishments that I have been to at least once, in most cases a couple of times, since we ate out more than once a week, trying to get our fill of the wide variety of Indian food before we left. I have to say too, that I never got sick of the food, and would happily subsist for the rest of my life on rice and dal!

I will lay these out by area, as if you are a visitor to the city, that (for me anyway) often determines where you eat, unless you are seeking out somewhere in particular, as I habitually do. Beginning in Greater Kailash Part 1, or GK as it is known, this was our home for six months in the south of the city, it had a selection of really good restaurants and is a good shopping area open till late, which we could walk to, dodging the traffic of cars, rickshaws, autos and the odd cow.

Please note that some places do not have their own websites, so the links give their address and info.

Moti Mahal Deluxe – Not the original home of butter chicken, but one of hundreds that are benefiting from using the same name. A good local restaurant with hearty Mughal fare, the chicken tikka and dal makhani were my favourites. This was actually the first place I ever ate in India, alone on my first day when Jack was at work, and needing to grab some lunch. Go beyond the ornate heavy door and sample the straight faced service and hearty food.

Le Cafe – Incredibly more international than Moti, this slick cafe above the even slicker menswear shop which you have to walk through, is a serene and modern serving internationally inspired food often with an Indian twist. Good salads and juices, plus main meals and sandwiches on their own breads are served by friendly waiters. Good if you tire of dal and rice... and fancy something little bit western.

The Turtle Cafe – A time honoured cafe in the Delhi coffee shop scene, this place serves plenty of pasta, sandwiches, salads and cakes with a huge selection of drinks... Their own made seasonal juices are very good. I spent many an hour away working and reading over their good South Indian coffee, as there is nothing gluten free to eat except channa salad. They also have a branch in the more central Khan Market.

Kasbah – The top of three floors of restaurants, the Indian venue serves traditional north Indian food. We became rather known here, as its modern setting and reliable food was a good introduction to Indian restaurants, and was a nice place for a more formal evening out. Good vegetarian offerings, I love the paneer tikka. Their kulfi, the Indian ice cream is completely different to anywhere else I had it, caramel-y without the dried fruit bits I would always insist on sharing one. The other restaurants are Chinese and Italian and have equally good reputation for Indian takes of the cuisine.

Shalom - A dark, atmospheric bar cum restaurant, this Moroccan inspired place was the place we sank a few (very expensive) G&T’s on the rare occasions that we went out drinking. The food is simple mezze and kebabs, with some of the best houmous I have eaten... it has DJs over the weekend and is quite a young and expat crowd.

Big Chill – Not somewhere I would normally recommend based on the very Indian interpretation of Italian food that they serve in, but this place is an ice cream mecca. A place we took every visitor (at least once) for ice cream in those scorching summer days, we would sit in the very kitsch diner style but heavily air conditioned surroundings and eat their homemade ice creams. Seasonal variations are to die for, and I had more than my fair share of the mango sundae. A tiny branch in Khan Market also, where you can get take away and mooch round the shops.

More to come for central areas, and some tourist favourites that we got to try whilst here... But let me know, have you been to any of these.. thoughts, advice for travellers to India... but please no horror stories!

Gluten Free Places to Eat in London Part 2

Continuing on from Part 1 of the best places, in my humble opinion to eat in London, particularly, but not only if you need gluten free meals. Writing this from India, Indian food which is brilliantly and naturally gluten free, is also a good option in London,

Tandoori Nights - One for the south east London crowd, this local tandoori has featured here before... check out why I still love it so much.

Masala Zone – Chain, yes but reliable one and a bit different when you are in the centre of town and want to avoid the grimness of Angus Steakhouses or Pizza Express. They have a range of great regional based dishes based on Indian home cooking and street food and have a handful located conveniently across the city – my regular is just off Carnaby St, perfect when you want to escape the crowds of Oxford Circus.

Le Relais de Venise L'Entrecôte – The original in Paris which is more than 50years old, this no reservation no choice menu restaurant came to London and has had queues round the block since the day it opened. For me this is now part of the charm in going to this restaurant. Crammed Parisian banquettes inside, the curt waitresses tell you the deal - Walnut salad to start, followed by Steak Frites, with a basket of fresh baguette and ask how you would your steak cooked. Never say medium rare – “one or the other” they say as they scribble on your paper tablecloth. Since the only thing being cooked is perfect French fries, and grilled steak, it is perfectly gluten free (without the bread of course). The steak comes with their “signature” sauce, the ingredients they never reveal, but have informed me that is is gluten free. And the best thing about this place... you get seconds. To serve the dish at its best you get half your steak and frites and when you have finished they come round again. No reservations, no choice, just perfectly cooked steak frites... being gluten free ain’t so bad!

The Providores – It’s not even worth trying to keep this place a secret, and like Vinoteca in my last post, is a well know pit stop on London’s foodie trail. We go for brunch, as the New Zealand style breakfast menu caters naturally for gluten free consumers with incredible and creative dishes which is refreshing for breakfast menus. Whilst some of the combinations can be a little perplexing, trust in Peter Gordon’s creativity... his food is divine, well sourced and complemented by the awesome Monmouth coffee. Upstairs now takes brunch reservations to save queueing.

Foyle’s Cafe – Often my place of work amongst other freelance and entrepreneurial souls the cafe at Foyle’s, this brilliant independent bookstore Tottenham Court Road, is where I often spend too much money on food books. The cafe which has expanded serves my favourite Monmouth coffee alongside the odd gluten free cake. Whilst they have always served salads, the gluten cross-contamination is sometimes an issue, but they now stock a range of pre-packed falafel and salads which are gluten free, so I now sometimes stick around for lunch!

Sally Clarke’s – Credited with beginning the focus on uber-seasonal foods in the 1980's when it wasn't so cool, my evening at this stalwart on the London restaurant scene was possibly one of my best meals out, since being gluten free. A real special occasion place, we were treated like royalty...

Canteen – Seasonal British fare with sourcing as much as they can from well known quality British farmers and producers, Canteen is a showcase for how good traditional British food can be. They always cater to my requests competently, know about gluten cross contamination and the poached haddock with mash, spinach and homemade hollandaiseI had on my last visit was the ultimate in comfort food.  A couple of branches across the city, they also serve a great all day breakfast menu, perfect when you fancy a bacon sarnie at any time of the day.

Balans – Introducing my friend to the wonders of Soho, one of my favourite areas in London, we nipped into Balans, a place I used to go for brunch when I lived in Chiswick, for a late night supper. A huge modern Brasserie style menu I asked about gluten free options and they demonstrated a good knowledge of the options, even talking about how the chef uses tamari in place of soy to open up gluten free options. I like the one in the heart of Soho in the thick of the action.

So there's plenty more where they came from, but let me know if you have been to any of these... what did you reckon? Are there places I should try out? Are there places, dare I ask, I should avoid? Let me know I’d love to hear your thoughts.

Gluten Free Places to Eat in London Part 1

Living in London for just nearly 8 years, and being as obsessed with food as I am, searching out the best places to eat, I am often asked for recommendations. Having Coeliac disease, as I have mentioned before has caused me to change my approach to eating out slightly, but I still enjoy discovering new places (which can confidently cater to my gluten free needs) and old favourites who I totally trust, discovering some of the best places to eat in the capital.

The list that follows has been built up over years of eating out, hours of research and minutes reviewing menus before I chose to bless them with my presence. I have written before about my approach to eating out safely, however I think I would take the same steps when visiting a new restaurant regardless of my disease. What I look for in a place is good food, cooked with the seasons in mind, complemented by straightforward informative service. I’ll tell you now I am not one for Michelin stars or empire building chefs such as Mr Ramsey, although I have been to many such places and enjoyed the experience. They are just not places I chose to spend my own money. I am looking for an independent spirit, specialisation (as you will see below) and an interesting wine list.

So whether you are gluten free, a plain old tourist or a local looking for a new place to try, have a look. And let me know whether you agree with my brief summary. Did they cater to your requests, gluten free or not satisfactorily? Have you been before?  Would you go again? Are there other recommendations for gluten free places that I should try?

Barafina – Limited by the number of seats at the counter, this authentic Spanish no reservation tapas bar is one of my most favourite places in London. We sometimes pop along for Sunday lunch, lazing the day away with small plates cooked in front of us, complemented by stunning all Spanish wines and finished off with a seasonal fruit pudding and a sticky glass of sherry. By no means cheap, this place is a complete treat...and we languish over the meal as long as possible. Most of the dishes are gluten free when they don’t come with bread, I have never had an issue.

Vinoteca – Another one of my favourite places in London, I used to go here the moment they opened after work round the corner and sip from their incredible, unusual wine list and a plate of marcona almonds whilst waiting for Jack to join me. Technically they are a wine bar serving food, so they too have no reservations which I  like... only room for the dedicated. Seasonal cooking with spot on wine recommendations, they have confidently modified daily changing menu to my diet and there are often puds I can eat too. If there isn’t there are always the intense chocolate truffles to send us on our way.

Carluccios – Not one I expected to put here, but a recent experience blew really surprised me. When leaving the UK for this Indian trip, Jack and I had dinner before a tearful farewell, and the only decent option was Carluccios. I have often sat at their communal tables for a coffee or rich hot chocolate, but when I asked about gluten free options at the Terminal 5 branch I was given a dedicated menu. Whilst this in itself is not too remarkable, I was impressed by the option of gluten free pasta. So a good one for when you need a value for money fresh cooked bite to eat, I would recommend the parma ham plate to start – far better than any parma ham I have experienced in Italy to date!

Leon – If I am near a branch of this fast healthy food joint, I always have to swing buy for a treat. Their brownies and lemon crunch bar are stated gluten free and are on a par with my own home baked creations. Paired with their well made coffees it makes the perfect stop gap. Their entire menu is labelled for gluten free and vegetarian, and the Aloo gobi with brown rice is a hearty, bargain of a meal.

Le Pain Quotidien – Strange if you consider the name that this bread shop and cafe should feature on a gluten free list, however this French chain operates in the French way of having bread (wheat-y stuff) on the side. This give lots of seasonal salads, mains and even brunch options and there is even a “wheat free” chocolate cake for those less sensitive that Coeliacs. Also found in Paris I use these places when I am looking for a quick, cheap bite or drink... a handy option much better than McDonalds (which I have been reduced to on numerous occasions).

Wright Brothers – Based in the bustling Borough market, this is a lovely place for incredible fresh seafood and oysters served in all manner of ways. Many of the dishes are gluten free, and they have often advised me of suitable dishes on the menu. I like to be sat at the bar where you can catch the action... grilled scallops and a pint of prawns with homemade garlic mayo are a must! Best to book on the weekends!

Tapas Brindisa – Another Spanish restaurant which probably reflects the growth in interest in London, they too are based in Borough market with one or two other branches. Selections of cured meats, small tapas plates and salads make great gluten free things to share... and you can always ask for more. If you want to eat at the market branch book ahead!

Watch this space for part 2 of London’s best (naturally gluten free) places to eat... there is so much more to discover!!!

A little behind the Best of 2009

Its been a crazy two weeks... An amazing early Christmas present was revealed to me on the 20th December... a sneaky little trip to Paris before Christmas. Not only was this sneaky, but very exciting since we had tried to visit last year for my 30th birthday, but were scuppered when a fire broke out in the tunnel, hours before we were due to leave the St Pancras Champagne bar.


This time we made it, but um... we had a little trouble getting home! The wrong kind of snow shut down the whole service and we were lucky to gain another day in Paris before flying back to Heathrow. It wasn't as simple as it sounds, but I won't bore you with the long and arduous details... we'll I'll just finish the story.


We got back to London, but not home. A sudden flurry of snow brought the south east of London to a halt and no bus, taxi or train would travel there. Already exhausted and having missed our train that afternoon to Norwich where we we spending all of Christmas, after a stiff G&T in the warmth of a boozer we decided to hot foot it up to East Anglia where we knew we would get a warm bed and welcome. Twelve hours after leaving Paris, we finally made it, not home, but to our Christmas hosts, albeit without any presents, clean clothes or the gluten free Christmas cake...

So, as a result of all our Christmas stuff and computer remaining in our spare room till last night (when we spent a very Christmas-y evening opening presents, drinking Champagne, and eating mince pies rather than blogging I'm afraid) I am rather behind on GwenBells Best of 2009. But I am back just in time for the final push in time for new years eve about the resolution I wish I'd stuck to. Problem is I can't think of one. 

I don't usually make new years resolutions, instead opting to choose things I would like to do more of...positivity is the name of the game here. So combining this positive outlook with a resolution to make new years resolutions each January, I resolve to write more here.


Happy New Year!

The Best of 2009 Blog Challenge

I love the beginning of a new year, in the same way that I used to love the beginning of a new school term. A clean slate on which to doodle hopes, dreams plans and resolutions and give direction to the year ahead. Before commencing on what I consider a lovely task (who doesn’t like to dream what cool stuff is coming your way?) I always indulge in a little review and reflection on the year rolling to a close.

And in what I see to be a truly fateful find, I have just discovered Gwen Bell’s #Best09 which calls for a review of the year in a blogging community stylee, asking for a best something each day ranging from restaurant experience to moment of peace, aha moment to advert. Unable to ignore the hands of fate, I will be doing my own take (as Gwen encourages!) as I know I will fall behind. In fact I am already behind since it’s the 5th December already. Every week, I will cover the “best ofs” from that week that I have something to reflect in one blog post, starting with:

BEST TRIP - BEST RESTAURANT MOMENT - BEST BOOK

Feel free to join in too...

It is safe to say that this year has been the biggest trip ever, in both senses of the word. It would be obvious to talk India being the best trip of the year, but to me trip suggests a journey away from home, and since we were living in Delhi I cannot technically bring it under this category. However, I will get it in somewhere, somehow though, believe me.

No, the best trip of 2009 was the rather unexpected and impulsive trip to Australia as holiday and re-acclimatisation to Western life before arriving in London. Two of my best friends moved back to Australia in the past year, but thankfully back to the same South Australian city of Adelaide. There had been no talk of visiting them, however discovering when talking on skype that India was exactly half way to Adelaide from England sowed the seed of thinking “since we are halfway there already...” and whoops, we booked a flight.

After six months baking in subtropical heat we landed in a mild Adelaide winter and inhaled the clean cool air, having forgotten what a cool breeze felt like. Dividing our time between our two friends who lived on different sides of the city (one beachside the other vineyard-side) we scheduled a foodie trip to Melbourne in between too. Just to make the most of being there you know.

It was the best because...I got to hang out with my friend and her new baby boy; see where my girlies now live; mooch round Adelaide’s amazing covered food market; dig into suppers of Aussie style BBQ squid; revel in the stacks of gluten free food EVERYWHERE, visit boutique wineries in Adelaide Hills and Barossa Valley; cruise the legendary coffee shops of Melbourne; Sample the incredible cuisine at the city’s wine restaurants; have even more coffee at late night coffee bars; stay at a beach house with a power cut; have a candlelit winter BBQ; spend five hours watching whales and their babies 100yds from our feet in the sand; watch an Aussie rules game with a flask of tea; teach my friends authentic Indian cookery... I’m not even scratching the surface.

Oh and one experience that qualifies as my best restaurant experience of the year was every place we ate during the entire trip understood gluten free, Coeliac requirements and I didn’t have to explain. There were always options for me, helpful staff and I wasn’t called a celeriac once! Shops with every gluten free flour imaginable, moist, dense gluten free cakes made from clean natural ingredients (so good I ate the one I supposedly bought for Jack!)...It was a sweet taste of relief knowing that I could put my trust in these restaurateurs and shop owners. Australia caters well for those with Coeliac Disease. Lucky Aussies.

Which leads me onto my best book of 2009. This has to be Maggie Beers Harvest. Like her homeland, it provides a stack of gluten free food, reads like a bedtime novel, was given to me by one of my best friends ever and I even got to meet her at her farm when we were cruising the Barossa Valley.

Gluten free in-flight meals

It has to be noted that Indian airlines are a dream for those with Coeliac Disease... I have taken far too many carbon spewing flights this year (and have another two in October... ouch) than I would have liked, largely for the impact on my carbon footprint which otherwise is quite respectable, but also for the “challenges” around the dreaded in-flight meals.

Our flight to Adelaide was via Singapore with Qantas, the first leg operated by Jet Airways. The online booking system lacked the facility to book a gluten free meal – only diabetic and vegetarian. Slightly anxious about when and what I will get to eat over our 20hour journey, I armed myself with the usual snacks and fruit, but I needn’t have worried.
Probably because Jet is an Indian airline, but the breakfast I was given was completely gluten free... and breakfast is the most gluten-ous of in-flight meals.

A choice of veg or non veg, I opted for the veg south Indian utappams, which came with a pot of yoghurt, a large and actually tasty fruit salad and fresh orange juice. It was by far the best breakfast I have ever had on a flight, and even the non veg option of omelette and chicken sausages would have been an option with the snags removed (assuming you aren’t that sensitive like I fortunately am).

Returning from Australia, on the Qantas leg, I wasn’t so fortunate, and expecting lunch to involve lots of gluten, I spoke to the air stewardess before we took off to see what they could arrange. After much debate about being able to book a gluten free meal, she kindly said that she would see what she could arrange. I was right to get ahead, as lunch was either ravioli or Singapore noodles (with soy sauce) so neither would be a possible lunch, but I needn’t have worried. Before anyone else got their lunch, the stewardess delivered a huge selection of goodies to eat including a cheese and ham salad that she raided First Class for. Snacks and desserts were included, and if anything I ate too much.

So, if you can’t book a gluten free meal, get yourself on Jet airline... but if travelling with someone else, have a quiet word with the in-flight staff. Who knows what goodies you may get.

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Gluten free Indian food

Gluten free airline meals

Gluten free guide to Indian food – Part 1

I knew that Indian food was perfect for those living gluten free since the cuisine is largely based on rice, lentils and milk. During my time working for the supermarkets I learnt a lot about real Indian food from one of our suppliers, who showed how wheat is mostly used for breads and not in main dishes and sauces. So, being so spoilt for choice, the whole time I have been living in India, I have behaved like a child in a sweet shop, not knowing which thing to dive into first.

With no work to tie me down, my purpose here has been to learn about the nation’s cuisine. I have explored many areas of Indian food, trying dosa and idli from the south, delving into the Bengali sweet shops for laddu and burfi, sampling the Mogal treasures from the Northern territories, each time finding more and more things I can safely eat. And it hasn’t stopped either. Just the other day, I saw on the menu of one of our favourite restaurants, uttapams, vada and appams which are also naturally gluten free. India is literally food heaven for people with Coeliac Disease!

In the UK, I think we have a surprisingly limited exposure to the variety of Indian food that exists. This country is bigger than the whole of Europe and to think that lamb rogan josh, chicken korma and naan is all they have to offer sells the cuisine a little short in my opinion. There are so many things that I am still discovering and learning about, so here is a little guide to real Indian, and of course gluten free food for you:

Idli – I first experienced these when our maid proudly brought the plump little rice patties, with coconut chutney and sambar for us to taste. She comes from Chennai in the South of India and these are a traditional Tamil breakfast – a fiery one for sure. The patties are made from fermented rice, formed into flattened mounds, steamed and served with fresh coconut chutney which has been tempered with mustard seeds and curry leaves. A little bowl of spicy lentil broth to wash it all down with makes for the most satisfying and spicy breakfast I have ever had.

Dosa – Jacks most favourite thing in the world (along with channa pindi, dal and rice, and to be honest Indian food in general). These savoury pancakes made from fermented rice and black (urad) lentils are cooked on a cast iron griddle to a golden crisp on one side only. These more-ish south Indian pancakes also come with fresh coconut chutney and sambar, but can be filled with a light potato curry (masala dosa), cooked in butter, or sprinkled with grated coconut. Avoid the rava versions which contain wheat based semolina if you are gluten free. Oh and the best bit is, you eat them with your hands, which gets pretty messy, but means you have to lick your fingers afterwards.Shame!

Dal – There is a huge range of dal (lentils) dishes to try including makhani dal – a rich dish of small black lentils cooked on a slow burning fire overnight with cream and butter; tarka dal – an everyday yellow arhar dal, tempered with garlic, ginger, cumin and other spices according to the chef; Masoor dal – a washed pink dal which doesn’t need pressure cooking and is tempered with onion, aniseed and other spices; channa dal – made with split chickpeas which are a harder lentil with a distinctive taste and tempered again with spices. All of these are gluten free, as the cooked lentil naturally thickens the sauce. I make mine in bulk when I make paneer using the whey to cook the dal in, and then eat it over a couple of days, the flavour improving as it ages.

Paneer – A light and simple to make cottage cheese is a great protein if you are vegetarian and essential for Indian cooking. Homemade paneer if far superior to shop bought (not that I even know where to buy it in London) with a creamy flavour when made from whole milk and yoghurt. I can’t wait to try it out with unpasteurised milk from my farmers market when I get back... It’s a versatile gluten free base that can be used to make paneer korma, paneer tikka, or my favourite butter paneer, and I have even used it diced up in omelettes.

Appams – These dense, aerated thick pancakes are another south Indian creation that I happened upon during Jacks birthday dinner at Spice Route. Traversing the route that traders took with their precious ingredients, the menu samples Keralan coastal cuisine via Sri Lanka, Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia and across to Vietnam. It was a Keralan Irachi Stew made from lamb that came accompanied with the appams to mop up the intense meaty juices – something I miss doing greatly, especially with a poached egg. They are made from pounded and fermented rice and cooked in a kadhi or wok.

So these are just a small handful gluten free goodies I have enjoyed sampling during my time in India... more about sweets, restaurants and some northern specialities to come. I could go on for weeks I think, as India really is gluten free heaven. You just have to come and taste it for yourself...

Related posts:
Recipe for Rajma / How to make paneer / Best dal yet / Recipe for Channa Pindi

Indian Cookery Classes

Indian food is an ancient and varied cuisine, totally dependent on the region, terrain, and weather from where it originates. Ingredients, cooking methods and accompaniments vary enormously as you travel from north to south, let alone east to west... So it was essential for me to enrol on some cookery classes on arrival in New Delhi, to try and begin my education of in Indian cookery.

Researching extensively before I left the UK, I found only a handful of classes in Northern India, and cruising the internet forums and foodie websites, I came across very few in Delhi. Most of the cooking schools featured foreign cuisine classes such as Italian, Lebanese, Spanish and Thai, or speciality skills such as cake baking and decorating – not what I was looking for.

However, further digging led me to Gourmet Desire in South Delhi, where I now live. Jyoti, a passionate home cook took two of us through some essential Indian ingredients, and then demonstrated northern Indian dishes on the free standing gas hob on her sheltered balcony. Armed with some very loose recipes – I think Indian women are born with the essential family recipes inscribed on their brain - I began my culinary adventure.

Indian women have always learnt to cook from their mothers and / or mother in laws, involved in food preparation for the family from an early age. Clearly there is no need for a cookery class if you are on a permanent food education at home. However, with modern times banging at the sub continents doors, fewer and fewer young women are learning to cook, choosing to study or work instead. When I was recently in my local market, searching for our favourite dosa mix, 2 Indian women asked me what I planned to do with it. “I’ll make Masala Dosa” I replied slightly amused by the question. “Whaaaat, you cook dooosaaa?” cooed the two ladies. “I don’t know how to make dosa” one laughed, “wow” said the other in admiration as I walked away with my new found foodie respect.

In the end, due to the lack of Indian courses available, I created my own schedule of “teach yourself Indian cookery”. Then, just in the nick of time, Amita called with a space on her last class before summer I had enquired about when I arrived. With my new found foodie guru I have learnt more than I could have wished for; rich Mughal influence north Indian dishes; lighter never tasted before southern ones; kashmiri home cooking; ingredients, names, cooking methods and history.

So if you are looking for Indian cooking classes in India, here is the benefit of my research. Whilst I haven’t tried all of them out, I was willing to part with cash if I had to... and they also had great reviews elsewhere. Make the decision for yourself, and if you try any, let me know what it’s like – there is always more to learn when it comes to Indian food.

Cooking with Amita - Delhi

Gourmet Desire - Delhi

India on the menu – Goa

Nimmy Paul – Kerala

Haritha Farms – Kerala

And just for the record, they will all happily take people with dietary requirements.

Gluten free airline meals

Have you ever been excited about plane food? I used to love the anticipation of hearing "chicken or fish?" coming down the aisle of the aeroplane - it signalled the start of new taste adventures in a foreign land. These days having to request a "special diet" for the flight fills me with dread. Gluten free meals are appalling in my experience and I wish that the airlines wouldn't bother.

On a trip to San Francisco last year, we flew for nearly 12 hours and I was kindly provided with a safe gluten free meal... not that I could identify what the hell it was. It looked like pickled artichokes in an insipid tomato sauce, boiled carrots on the side and decorated with black olives. Not a dish I had seen before... and it was gross. Served with a thimble of rice and an inedible rock representing gluten free bread, and the ever so creative dried out fruit salad for dessert this was the only food I was given for the entire flight. When the in flight staff came round with snacks, cakes and sandwiches for ‘normal’ passengers, I had to ask what they had for me. A blank expression told me that I had received my quota of gluten free delicacies and I spent the rest of the flight starving hungry – there was nothing safe for me to eat.

How an airline such as Virgin Atlantic - who I wrote and complained to - can get it so utterly wrong, when new airline Kingfisher gets it so right is an example of the constant contrasts that living in India throws my way.

On an hour’s flight to Jaipur recently with budget Indian airline Kingfisher, we were promptly served a hot meal. Unexpected for such a short flight, I cautiously pulled back the tinfoil lid of the hot dish and to my HUGE excitement it was Indian food! Indian food that I could eat! The roti was served separately in its own tinfoil, thus keeping the whole meal naturally gluten free, and even the chocolate mousse for pudding - was safe to eat too.

Everyone got the same meal – it was good for vegetarians, lactose and gluten intolerant passengers (when opting out of the respective bad bits) and it really was rather good. Indian food benefits greatly from being cooked in advance, allowing the flavours to meld and soften which makes it perfect for in flight meals. Much to the embarrassment of Jack – I took photos to remember this special moment.

Unlike my return flight from San Francisco, where I created a naturally gluten free hamper at the Ferry Building Farmers Market and Whole Foods to avoid passing out in the aisle from hunger, in India I eat well when I travel. In fact I actually look forward to my in-flight meals here!

Great gluten free foods

The Californian neighbourhood food shop is none other than Wholefoods and the nerd in me was quietly pleased to have some time alone to wander the aisles. Despite having our first outpost of the organic superstore in London, the ranges vary hugely and I found many of the products often raved about by US bloggers, such as Bobs Red Mill Flours.

The most exciting and inspiring thing for me was the variety of gluten free ingredients and products, even in a small town store such as Sebastapool. Each product, including the loose ingredients to buy in bulk were highlighted with a Gluten Free label on the shelf, all mixed in with the "normal"products.

To me this was great, as when I go food shopping I think about what I am going to eat and therefore when I want to buy biscuits, I go to the biscuit section. The Wholefoods approach to product placement - and this may be only my interpretation - is integrated without shouting "special needs" and risks people without the need to eat gluten free picking them up.

And it is a risk - In the UK a large proportion of the large scale manufactured gluten free ingredients would not be eaten by those who do not have to - with exceptions of course. However in the US, I was consistently suprised at the quality, variety, taste and ingredients of the majority of GF foods. (It has to be noted here that I acknowledge Wholefoods is a more expensive food shop, but for me is the benchmark for what our supermarkets should aspire to).

Fortunatley I had enough room in my luggage for a handful of ingredients to try at home including:

Quinoa pasta - a much more robust pasta than rice, that had a less noodle-y texture, but no distinctive taste like the fresh chickpea pasta from Sainsburys.

Crackers - made from rice flour they reminded me of the ritz crackers without the cheesey flavour and only a hint of rice flour aftertaste.

Blue Corn Tortilla Chips - Wholefoods own label with a hint of lime without flavourings so you could taste the corn.

Marys Gone Crackers - Mini crackers made from seeds which are crunchy and tasty whilst all natural.

Teff flour / Amaranth flour / Differnt ground cornmeals

Almond meal - sold as a great alternative base to pastry, made from locally grown almonds great for puddings.

Gluten free wraps - made from ground corn

Gluten free macaroons - just one of the many baked goods made in the inhouse bakery

Japanese crackers - light crackers made with rice flour

Gluten free cereal bars - a great on the go snack that doesn't taste of cardboard.

and these are just the ones I found in a half hour wander...oh for WholeFoods to expand in the UK... at least there was lots of inspiriation for cooking.

Tried and Tested Gluten Free California, USA

The State of California is renowned for special diets,- seafood diet, low carb, no carb, lettuce only diet or even something comparably normal like gluten free. Over two weeks of eating out in San Francisco and the Bay area has generated a hefty list of recommendations for gluten free eating below - and these are only the ones I am pleased to recommend. Special places where the service or menu surprised and delighted may warrant some extra attention later one, but while the memories of handmade corn chips, succulent grilled meats and heavenly seafood are still fresh in my mind, here's a list to tempt you over the pond:

Mosaic - Forestville, Sonoma County

East West Cafe - Sebastapool, Sonoma County

Willi's Seafood - Healdsburg, Sonoma County

Chez Panisse - Berkley, San Francisco

Taylor's Automatic Refresher -St Helena, Napa Valley

Underwood Bar and Bistro - NG_ERROR_11>Graton, NG_ERROR_12>Sonoma County

Rose's Cafe - Cow Hollow, San Francisco

Passion Fish - Pacific Grove

The Red House Cafe - Pacific Grove

Mountain Rooms - Yosemite National Park

Jack Falstaff - San Fransisco

Just looking at this list makes me hungry, and knowing how well they dealt with my requirement - and I can assure you I am no risk taker when it comes to health on holiday - I can tell you I was relaxed and thrilled at every meal here.

Gluten free eating in california - coming soon...

Sunny California is the place for anyone with a dietarty requirement. During a two week trip to San Franscisco and the Bay area I entrusted my health (and my holiday) to B&B's owners or restaurant and cafe chefs and I was perfectly healthy the whole trip. Not one incedence of being "gluten-ised" in more than two weeks of eating every meal out. So, over the next few days I will be sharing my reccomendations and experiences, plus a few stunning vistas of San Fransisco and the Bay area.

Bonjour Paris...

I am off to Paris on my first gluten free trip to France. Friends of mine think I am nuts going to the global home of daily made bread, flaky pastries and delicate cakes however I see it as a gastronomic challenge that I am rather looking forward to.

Despite France's meals being peppered with gluten at every opportunity, their cooking is what I call "clean", by which I mean you get pastry, bread, croissant as a component to the meal - the gluten in visible and you can opt out. The French are very protective of their culinary history and have long been suspicious of mass produced food, which means that sauces are reductions, fried foods are kept to a minimum making it much simpler to avoid gluten.

So, I will report back on my experiences in the foodie capital and will share the good the bad and the ugly... but all should be well - there's always "steak frites"

Bonne vaccance

Something is looming. Some find it terrifying, others pretend that it's not really coming. Me, I can't wait. It's the perfect excuse for a big blow out trip somewhere I've been dreaming of. My 30th birthday is coming!!

Birthdays in this urban top floor flat, are an excuse to indulge each other, usually with a trip somewhere we both fancy exploring, essentially because we don't like a lot of public birthday fuss. Of course the excuse to plan a trip, such as New York last year for J's birthday is the excuse every girl needs.

With my birthday on the horizon, there have been earnest discussions about where to go, and we initially decided on San Francisco. This decision was largely based on my "special needs" to eat gluten free with ease, especially whilst on holiday. Last year we descended on the Big Apple just a month after I was diagnosed with coeliac disease. Considering how distraught I was at the thought missing out on those quintessential stacks of pancakes drenched in maple syrup, all American cheesey burgers and the New York hot dog on a street corner, I had the best time, ate safely the whole trip (in fact J got food poisoning - not me!) and I actually ate like a King. Therefore this largely influenced our decision to explore the west coast of America - home of the US coffee culture and Californian cuisine.

Food, as most of my family will confirm is my largest motivation to explore a place. I love how it gives a sense of place and just a peep into the way of life of its people. No more is this food culture more abundant and diverse than on our doorstep in Europe. More and more frequent trips to family in Umbria at the heart of Italys' only land locked region, have developed an increasing confidence in safely eating gluten free on the continent. Coupled with my continued interest , some say obsession with local food and markets and in true "against the grain" style, I announced that I no longer wanted to celebrate my third decade in the US, when there was so much of Europe to discover, and a smaller carbon emission to boot.

Every time we have been to Italy, we have talked of doing the "road trip" across France and down to Italy - thinking of the bounty we could return home with. Driving through vineyard covered French hills, stopping off for an impromptu picnic assembled from local smelly cheeses and aged charcuterie bought from the little market in the last town...this is what my dream are made of...

So, I am currently devouring a stack of books on the first stage of the trip that will be France, to get a taste of what's to come:

My Life in France - Julia Child

Tarragon and Truffles - Anne Gregg



Hot Sun, Cool Shadow - Angela Murrils



So, you could say I was studying french food in order to aid my decisions when devouring the menu in cute little french bistros, sipping vin rouge...

...meanwhile does anyone know how to say in french "I have coeliac disease and cannot eat gluten"? Crucial phrase really!!

Bonne vaccance....en Septembre! (a little while to wait...quel domage!)