Bambuni Deli and Coffee Shop, Nunhead

Before I had my boy, we lived in the top of a victorian house between Nunhead and Peckham. Technically we were Queens Rd Peckham, but like some “borderline’ areas it depended who we were talking to as to where we admitted to living. I loved urban living though, being only 6 minutes on the train from London Bridge with direct access to Borough Market, Tate Modern and the lovely Monmouth Coffee. 

I used Monmouth at Borough Market like my local coffee shop. Extreme I know, but the establishments of East Dulwich were so inaccessible by public transport, that ten minutes door to door seemed reasonable. This is the logic of living in London I think? Anyway, we didn’t have a local cafe and Jack and I both LOVE coffee, so it was a good solution for the three years we lived there.

But had we stayed a little longer we would have had something within walking distance. Up on Evelina Rd in Nunhead, Bambuni has just opened. A cafe and deli stacked with well sourced products and running the seasonal coffees from Volcano, its a great addition to the independent Nunhead mix.

It’s quite a way from my new home in East Dulwich. However a brisk walk will be had to select from their range of Kent and Fraser gluten free biscuits, refill wine, olive and rapeseed oils, plus the scoop section of loose ingredients such as rice, ground nuts and popping corn (and for the gluten consumers there is a great selection of flour including 00). I love the lack of packaging with refilling bottles and loose food, plus of course the financial savings. Friendly staff make up a mean flat white so we can top up the caffeine levels for the return via Peckham Rye Park. It sounds like a nice way to do some rather boring food shopping. And I am always up for that.

Temptation of Brockley Market

Me, back in the day at Acton Farmers Market

I am a stay at home mum. I am saying this out loud. It has taken some getting used to, but I am much more comfortable with how it sounds. My son recently turned one, and I am lucky not to have to return to work. It was always the plan, however my answer to the inevitable party question “what do you do for a living” fills me with dread. But, the up side to this (I am a half full kind of person) is that I get more time than most to potter around in the kitchen cooking things from my Cooking Project List and batch cooking family meals.

It isn’t the idyllic picture I paint though. Constant washing up, emptying the dishwasher, refilling the tupperware drawer that my little man has emptied for entertainment has a certain repetitiveness to it. But I am growing to enjoy this new rhythm. I spend a lot of time at home and locally then escape for precious me time at the weekend usually to a food market.

As a past employee and longtime customer of London Farmer’s Markets, I am extremely loyal. As one of their auditors I know how strict the standards are for stallholders and find the loose definitions of ‘local’ at some farmers markets only serve to confuse the already confused public. Where can you grow olives in the UK? But any weekend we are in London I love to take time out from being a mum and immerse myself amongst the stalls of seasonal goodness. This is a time I like to get my brain going thinking about what to eat in the week and choosing a seasonal application for my Cooking Project List.

Normally, I make a beeline for the heaving stands of Blackheath Farmers Markets, heading straight for staples from known stallholders. However I have been tempted away. A little closer to home over in Brockley a new food market has sprung up in Lewisham College car park. It’s closer and it’s on a saturday. I used to do my market shopping on a saturday back when I ran Acton farmers market and then spent most of the sunday cooking, braising and baking. It was my natural rhythm of the week. But there is no decent farmers market in South London at the start of the weekend so I have shifted my shopping and cooking to a sunday. But the temptation of a new bunch of food businesses to peruse closer to home excites me and so this weekend I am going to see what it’s like. I am expecting great things and hope to be roasting, baking and slow cooking for the rest of the week. As well as picking up the tupperware from the kitchen floor a few times too.

Brixton - the home of gluten free food

image by popupculture.co.uk

I am lucky to live in the lovely, village-y East Dulwich which has an impressive selection of food shops along it's main street. Two branches of organic butcher William Rose, skilled friendly fishmongers Moxons, jam packed urban farm shop Franklins (who stock WAG’s baked goods), organic bakery Lucas who do a wheat free polenta cake and a mean flat white, plus the grocer SMBS who stock a growing range of gluten free products. These are just a few of my favourite, however, being a stay at home mum, I must admit to getting a little bored of the places right on my doorstep. I love to research and explore what else is on offer south of the river, especially when it comes to finding small shops and restaurants using local and seasonal food that happens to be gluten free.

So, you can imagine how chuffed I was when making my pilgrimage to the dedicated gluten free bakery in Brixton I discovered a stack of such places in the vicinity of 'the village'. I would go as far to say that Brixton Village is the new home of gluten free food. I assume this is because WAG free bakery - the mecca for Coeliacs and wheat avoiders - has raised awareness and highlighted the opportunity to locals business folk. Whatever the reason, who cares? The beauty is that every time I visit SW9 I discover another small, independent restaurant, cafe or shop advertising gluten free options.

One of these places is Ms Cupcake, who I tracked down when researching vegan cakes for my son’s First Birthday. She creates stunning edible showpieces that you wouldn’t believe are totally vegan. Plus she vows always to have something gluten free too. My choice (to share with Oliver of course...) was a Banoffee Cupcake. But to be honest it was too good and too sweet to share with a one year old. Shame. The shop also sells a great collection of bakeware, cupcake accessories and vegan cookbooks for inspiration. 

Then, high on sugar walking through the covered market I spotted a Japanese restaurant, a Mexican cafe and a burger joint all advertising gluten free options. Then I was on a gluten free high... excited at all the places still to try. So, I feel it is my duty to the gluten free world to see how good the places are, and of course report back here. In the meantime, I am off to one of my favourite cafes - Homemade - back in East Dulwich for a completely homemade (including the honey roast ham!) and gluten free ploughman’s in the last of the autumn sun.

WAG Free Bakery, Brixton, London

Going to a shop or cafe where you can eat everything in sight is absolutely impossible when you are Coeliac. Until now. Head down to Brixton Village, an undercover 1930's market recently saved from desperate times, and nestled amongst an exciting mix of independent shops, cafes and restaurants is the  WAG (Wheat and Gluten) Free Bakery.

I discovered their baked goods through their only other stockist, Franklins Farmshop in East Dulwich. A few cakes and pies grace the tables heaving with seasonal produce, but are usually gone by saturday. They are that good. I can't tell you my disappointment if I don't get there in time. So to prevent such situations I dragged my brother over to Brixton to sample the whole package.

I totally underestimated how excited I could be about unlimited food choices. And choices of things I have not had for such a long time. In the past, my sweet tooth has driven me to bake gluten free cakes, puddings and dessert recipes, because I have honestly not missed things like pies, quiches or sandwiches. Or maybe not? I think I has forgotten what I was missing.

Perched on the tottering bar stools with my 11month old son bouncing on the counter, we sampled a toasted cheese and onion sandwich for lunch which was excellent. Good strong, oozy cheese and crunchy tasty bread. But I had to try more, knowing what the sweet goods are like so we ordered two little steak pies, a Bakewell tart, the legendary Wagon Wheel plus a box of pasta from Dialsi which owner David raves about, to take away. And I was being restrained.

Over the past couple of days I have enjoyed the continued sampling (all the in name of research of course) and can honestly say that all the products are excellent. Such high quality pastry across the range, although the pie in particular was excellent as vouched for my "normal" pie eating brother. But then David admits to being a pie man, so no surprise he has perfected his recipe.

What else, can I say? Get down there. Support the WAG Bakery. Enjoy their products whether you are gluten free or not. I would challenge you to know the difference.

Please note - there would have been pictures, but I ate it all then realised I wanted to photograph them. Oh well. Just have to go again!

It looks like cake...

it tastes like cake... so I suppose it is cake.

This is the first attempt at my gluten, egg and milk free birthday cake for my son. A good friend of mine, equally food obsessed sent me a range of free from cake recipes. This had the fewest ingredients and simplest recipe so seemed like a logical place to start, when juggling it with a baby's day.

I am yet to find out the source of this recipe, but all credit goes to its creator and I wil endeavour to find out. It was EXTREMELY easy to make, particularly as I have a a new set of measuring cups. You literally just mix the wet with the dry ingredients then bake for 30mins. And I have to say it tastes alright. I was pleasantly surprised. The combination of dark brown sugar and cocoa give it a lovely, fudgey flavour, and it improves the day after baking.

Given that this is my first attempt, I have big hopes for the more complex recipes I have collected each with rather exotic ingredients, such as tapioca and quinoa flours that I am yet to source. In the mean time, I am off this weekend to sample  my most recent find WAG (wheat and gluten) FREE Bakery in Brixton. A complete mecca for Coeliacs where we can eat everything in the shop, I will be sure to try some cake all in the name of research, and let you know the results.

Gluten, dairy and egg free chocolate cake
Ingredients:
1 1/2 cups gluten free flour (I used a mixture of rice and buckwheat)
1 cup packed dark brown sugar
1 tsp baking powder
1/4 cup cocoa
1/2 tsp salt
1 cup water
1 tbsp vinegar
1 tsp vanilla essence
6 tbsp oil (vegetable, olive or groundnut)


Recipe
Preheat the oven to 180degrees and grease a 20cm square non-stick cake tin.
Mix the dry ingredients together in a large bowl and make a well in the centre.
Pour in all the wet ingredients and whisk to achieve a batter.
Pour the batter into the cake tine and bake for 25-30mins, or until a skewer comes out clean.
Leave to cook in the tin and remove.

Note: you may find that you need to add a little more water, depending on the flours used. I added about 4 tbsp extra.

Delicious with fresh strawberries and creme fraiche.

Things have changed a little round here

It has been over a year since I last showed my face on this page. I can't believe the changes that have taken place in that time, and how I have been gone so long.

But life took over - as for so many bloggers - and I needed to life an off-line life for a bit. When I wrote my last post, unbeknown to me I was pregnant. Well actually, I think deep down I knew but was letting the reality of the situation sink in. In addition to this totally exciting news we decided to sell the Peckham Palace and rent in the lovely London village of East Dulwich. Less urban and much more yummy mummy. We decided to be one of those mental couples to do everything at once.

So forgive me for my absence. In a way all the chaos was a blessing as the pregnancy totally killed my passion for food. I was STARVING all the time, and remained that way until just a few weeks ago when I stopped breastfeeding, but couldn't face cooking. I was gutted. But it spared me the agony of not having anything to say here.

Summer, a whole year later and our little family of three are firmly settled in our new home, with I am glad to report, a much bigger kitchen and our own garden which is already brimming with different varieties of tomatoes and herbs. And this week, I am kick starting my return to the food world by giving a short talk on living a gluten free life at the vegetarian Blue Brick Cafe in East Dulwich. Its this Thursday (21st July) at 7.30pm is free to attend and there will be some goodies to sample, so come along and say hi.

And I promise to return sooner this time with tales of how much has changed, including introducing my new fella.

A choice of dessert for a change

Since I was a baby I have had a sweet tooth, to the point where my mother would feed me my pudding before my main in order to get me to eat everything. If I had the choice I would do the same now, or even forgo the formalities of main course and just have three courses of puds. Heaven.

Unfortunately, gluten free desserts are usually a little predictable on restaurant menus and if there is more than crème brulee or ice cream its an exciting night! Nowadays I will scandalously be found choosing a starter over dessert just for interest and to avoid yet another crème brulee. But it must be said that every now and again, as I dive straight to the back of the menu to check out the sweet stuff just in case, I am pleasantly surprised. And, never more so than during lunch at Bob Bob Ricard in London’s Soho yesterday with my dear travelling buddy Kate.

Not only were they confidently competent in dealing with my gluten free requests, but they had a total of eight desserts that were gluten free, not including the chocolate truffles. Eight desserts! What a dream? They included my childhood favourite Knickerbockerglory, plus two seasonal jellies, home made gourmet ice cream, passion fruit pavlova, the ubiquitous crème brulee, home made sorbet, and a flour-less chocolate cake for the less sensitive Coeliacs. And for the health conscious one there was a seasonal fruit plate, and truffles for the very full.

Whilst I would normally have gone the Knickerbockerglory route without question, I was so full from probably the best chicken Caesar salad, fries and coleslaw I have eaten outside of the US that I went for ice cream. I cannot resist salted caramel in any form. Part of a gelato trio with valrohna chocolate and simple vanilla it finished the meal perfectly and came wafer free (for a change)!

But tell me, do you bother with pudding when eating out? Any places to recommend that have great gluten free desserts? Let me know...!

Gluten Free Places to Eat in London Part 2

Continuing on from Part 1 of the best places, in my humble opinion to eat in London, particularly, but not only if you need gluten free meals. Writing this from India, Indian food which is brilliantly and naturally gluten free, is also a good option in London,

Tandoori Nights - One for the south east London crowd, this local tandoori has featured here before... check out why I still love it so much.

Masala Zone – Chain, yes but reliable one and a bit different when you are in the centre of town and want to avoid the grimness of Angus Steakhouses or Pizza Express. They have a range of great regional based dishes based on Indian home cooking and street food and have a handful located conveniently across the city – my regular is just off Carnaby St, perfect when you want to escape the crowds of Oxford Circus.

Le Relais de Venise L'Entrecôte – The original in Paris which is more than 50years old, this no reservation no choice menu restaurant came to London and has had queues round the block since the day it opened. For me this is now part of the charm in going to this restaurant. Crammed Parisian banquettes inside, the curt waitresses tell you the deal - Walnut salad to start, followed by Steak Frites, with a basket of fresh baguette and ask how you would your steak cooked. Never say medium rare – “one or the other” they say as they scribble on your paper tablecloth. Since the only thing being cooked is perfect French fries, and grilled steak, it is perfectly gluten free (without the bread of course). The steak comes with their “signature” sauce, the ingredients they never reveal, but have informed me that is is gluten free. And the best thing about this place... you get seconds. To serve the dish at its best you get half your steak and frites and when you have finished they come round again. No reservations, no choice, just perfectly cooked steak frites... being gluten free ain’t so bad!

The Providores – It’s not even worth trying to keep this place a secret, and like Vinoteca in my last post, is a well know pit stop on London’s foodie trail. We go for brunch, as the New Zealand style breakfast menu caters naturally for gluten free consumers with incredible and creative dishes which is refreshing for breakfast menus. Whilst some of the combinations can be a little perplexing, trust in Peter Gordon’s creativity... his food is divine, well sourced and complemented by the awesome Monmouth coffee. Upstairs now takes brunch reservations to save queueing.

Foyle’s Cafe – Often my place of work amongst other freelance and entrepreneurial souls the cafe at Foyle’s, this brilliant independent bookstore Tottenham Court Road, is where I often spend too much money on food books. The cafe which has expanded serves my favourite Monmouth coffee alongside the odd gluten free cake. Whilst they have always served salads, the gluten cross-contamination is sometimes an issue, but they now stock a range of pre-packed falafel and salads which are gluten free, so I now sometimes stick around for lunch!

Sally Clarke’s – Credited with beginning the focus on uber-seasonal foods in the 1980's when it wasn't so cool, my evening at this stalwart on the London restaurant scene was possibly one of my best meals out, since being gluten free. A real special occasion place, we were treated like royalty...

Canteen – Seasonal British fare with sourcing as much as they can from well known quality British farmers and producers, Canteen is a showcase for how good traditional British food can be. They always cater to my requests competently, know about gluten cross contamination and the poached haddock with mash, spinach and homemade hollandaiseI had on my last visit was the ultimate in comfort food.  A couple of branches across the city, they also serve a great all day breakfast menu, perfect when you fancy a bacon sarnie at any time of the day.

Balans – Introducing my friend to the wonders of Soho, one of my favourite areas in London, we nipped into Balans, a place I used to go for brunch when I lived in Chiswick, for a late night supper. A huge modern Brasserie style menu I asked about gluten free options and they demonstrated a good knowledge of the options, even talking about how the chef uses tamari in place of soy to open up gluten free options. I like the one in the heart of Soho in the thick of the action.

So there's plenty more where they came from, but let me know if you have been to any of these... what did you reckon? Are there places I should try out? Are there places, dare I ask, I should avoid? Let me know I’d love to hear your thoughts.

Gluten Free Places to Eat in London Part 1

Living in London for just nearly 8 years, and being as obsessed with food as I am, searching out the best places to eat, I am often asked for recommendations. Having Coeliac disease, as I have mentioned before has caused me to change my approach to eating out slightly, but I still enjoy discovering new places (which can confidently cater to my gluten free needs) and old favourites who I totally trust, discovering some of the best places to eat in the capital.

The list that follows has been built up over years of eating out, hours of research and minutes reviewing menus before I chose to bless them with my presence. I have written before about my approach to eating out safely, however I think I would take the same steps when visiting a new restaurant regardless of my disease. What I look for in a place is good food, cooked with the seasons in mind, complemented by straightforward informative service. I’ll tell you now I am not one for Michelin stars or empire building chefs such as Mr Ramsey, although I have been to many such places and enjoyed the experience. They are just not places I chose to spend my own money. I am looking for an independent spirit, specialisation (as you will see below) and an interesting wine list.

So whether you are gluten free, a plain old tourist or a local looking for a new place to try, have a look. And let me know whether you agree with my brief summary. Did they cater to your requests, gluten free or not satisfactorily? Have you been before?  Would you go again? Are there other recommendations for gluten free places that I should try?

Barafina – Limited by the number of seats at the counter, this authentic Spanish no reservation tapas bar is one of my most favourite places in London. We sometimes pop along for Sunday lunch, lazing the day away with small plates cooked in front of us, complemented by stunning all Spanish wines and finished off with a seasonal fruit pudding and a sticky glass of sherry. By no means cheap, this place is a complete treat...and we languish over the meal as long as possible. Most of the dishes are gluten free when they don’t come with bread, I have never had an issue.

Vinoteca – Another one of my favourite places in London, I used to go here the moment they opened after work round the corner and sip from their incredible, unusual wine list and a plate of marcona almonds whilst waiting for Jack to join me. Technically they are a wine bar serving food, so they too have no reservations which I  like... only room for the dedicated. Seasonal cooking with spot on wine recommendations, they have confidently modified daily changing menu to my diet and there are often puds I can eat too. If there isn’t there are always the intense chocolate truffles to send us on our way.

Carluccios – Not one I expected to put here, but a recent experience blew really surprised me. When leaving the UK for this Indian trip, Jack and I had dinner before a tearful farewell, and the only decent option was Carluccios. I have often sat at their communal tables for a coffee or rich hot chocolate, but when I asked about gluten free options at the Terminal 5 branch I was given a dedicated menu. Whilst this in itself is not too remarkable, I was impressed by the option of gluten free pasta. So a good one for when you need a value for money fresh cooked bite to eat, I would recommend the parma ham plate to start – far better than any parma ham I have experienced in Italy to date!

Leon – If I am near a branch of this fast healthy food joint, I always have to swing buy for a treat. Their brownies and lemon crunch bar are stated gluten free and are on a par with my own home baked creations. Paired with their well made coffees it makes the perfect stop gap. Their entire menu is labelled for gluten free and vegetarian, and the Aloo gobi with brown rice is a hearty, bargain of a meal.

Le Pain Quotidien – Strange if you consider the name that this bread shop and cafe should feature on a gluten free list, however this French chain operates in the French way of having bread (wheat-y stuff) on the side. This give lots of seasonal salads, mains and even brunch options and there is even a “wheat free” chocolate cake for those less sensitive that Coeliacs. Also found in Paris I use these places when I am looking for a quick, cheap bite or drink... a handy option much better than McDonalds (which I have been reduced to on numerous occasions).

Wright Brothers – Based in the bustling Borough market, this is a lovely place for incredible fresh seafood and oysters served in all manner of ways. Many of the dishes are gluten free, and they have often advised me of suitable dishes on the menu. I like to be sat at the bar where you can catch the action... grilled scallops and a pint of prawns with homemade garlic mayo are a must! Best to book on the weekends!

Tapas Brindisa – Another Spanish restaurant which probably reflects the growth in interest in London, they too are based in Borough market with one or two other branches. Selections of cured meats, small tapas plates and salads make great gluten free things to share... and you can always ask for more. If you want to eat at the market branch book ahead!

Watch this space for part 2 of London’s best (naturally gluten free) places to eat... there is so much more to discover!!!

Competition for Borough Market?

London Farmers's Markets, who run authentic and certified produce markets with a selection that enables you to complete your weekly shop have begun their foray south of the river. Brixton opened to much acclaim from local residents a month or so ago, and at the beginning of November they opened in Bermondsey.

Most Londoners, let along Brits are unfamiliar with places south of the river, and Bermondsey may not mean much to many. However to those in the know, this area is a foodie mecca, home to the food temple that is Borough Market, awesome local coffee roasters and merchants Monmouth Coffee and legendary fromagerie Neal's Yard Dairy. Just a five minute walk from here is Bermondsey St, an extension of foodie heaven with a great selection of restaurants, coffee shops and bars and now Bermondsey Farmers Market.

As a local (just 6minutes from my home by train) it's a real breath of fresh air to have some well priced, local, seasonal produce being sold by the producer without jostling with tourists and long lens cameras to get near to some over priced food, as is the case at Borough. A great selection of meats, seasonal veggies, apple and pear varieties demonstrating the diversity of British fruit, fresh fish prepared in front of you...these traders are why I love farmers markets.

So, for those of you in the mood for buying your weekly shop in the tranquillity of an open square free from tourists head to Bermondsey Farmers Market, open from the very sociable hours of 10am til 2pm, and you will discover the real heart of London food shopping.

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Foodie Fashionista

"Mum you are in fashion!” I laughed down the phone as we planned our blackberry picking fest for the weekend. “Very funny” she says when I tell her that foraging is the fashionable thing to do these days. After returning home from India our second weekend in the UK was to be spent with my family in Arundel. As is often the case, it revolves around food and a fix of country fresh air, and this time was no different. After having a quick rummage in our sprawling and over grown unofficial London garden, I returned to the kitchen triumphant with a bowl of blackberries and a jumper full of pears. Next door has a pear tree groaning with ready to pick fruit (and given it’s a Peckham School reform centre, I don’t think they have grand plans for preserving and baking), so I went scrumping!

Before my Indian adventure, I would have been far too prudish to scale the wall and nick the pears, but feeling the need for adventure I climbed the tree, leaned over the wall and stuffed as many pears into my jumper as it could hold.

So, with my renewed passion for seasonal and free English food, I suggested a little blackberry-ing... Mum’s always up for it. As a child we used to be lured to the park, to be told that we could play with the other kids once only when we had filled up a container with the finger staining bramble fruits from around the edge of the playing field. As much as we groaned, it was “one for me...one for the pot”... and fifteen years later, I am back in the field stretching to reach that perfect plump berry surrounded by thorns that is just out of reach.

Down at mums, her garden hedges were loaded with blackberries. I have never seen so many, so firm and so juicy, to the point where Jack even risked scratches from the thorns for a huge bowl of them. We barely left the front or back doors to pick at least a couple of kilos of blackberries. But now I have to think of more adventurous ways to serve them than as a breakfast of yoghurt and toasted almonds... or popping them like sweets, simply as they are.

Whilst blackberries will never be as good as my daily Indian mangoes, they score pretty highly and are free (unless you’re the mug who buys them in the supermarket... in season?)... So get picking, it is the fashion after all!

Related links:

Mango juice

Mango varieties

All about cherries

Last years bounty from the garden

Moroccan Afternoon Tea

The lovely thing about leaving the continent for a while is that all your friends want to see you before you depart. I have spent a lovely couple of weeks grabbing drinks with girlfriends, cooking for old school friends, having supper cooked for me and sipping a fragrant glass of Moroccan Mint tea with a newly wed.

I spend a lot of time around Bond St in London- an area convenient for friends located both north and south of the river - and often visit Carluccios for coffee on their communal table. Last night, disaster struck as it was closed for refurbishment. Strolling past Levant - a place I have walked past a million times - my newly hitched friend suggested we go for tea there, so we tiptoed down the lantern lit stairs for Moroccan Mint tea.

Transported to an opulent Marrakesh-i atmosphere, my mint tea arrived and was poured from the great height needed to oxygenate the mint leaf flavou. I am not sure if that is actually why it is poured in such a way - but that is what I recall from our induction to mint tea in the High Atlas Mountains. Its appears that Mint Tea is actually the Moroccan equivalent to Cream Tea, as a towering cake stand was swiftly delivered to our table. Each level contained something different - cream cheese stuffed apricots, shell on pistachios, baklava and my favourite - a pile of Turkish delight!

The real treat about this was that I could eat all but one of the treats... and there was as much mint tea as I could drink. So, for an alternative afternoon tea - head to Morocco.

Terroirs

A good review is great for a new restaurant, but sometimes sucks for the locals! Living just 20minutes from Covent Garden, I am often in central London and love to dip into and try new restaurants. I use reviews to give me a feel for the place and the type of food on offer (and whether I will be able to eat much on the menu). However in this instance - when a restaurant such as Terroirs on the Strand recieves such rave reviews and the critics loudly sing in chorus the praise for French tapas and "natural" wines - I couldn't book a table. Even in the credit crunch?

Attempting the bar menu / chance table approach on Thursday night with my good friend Mrs Burger, we managed to get a spot by the bar for a glass of their natural French red wines, but no food.

Fast forward to Saturday lunch time in Covent Garden and looking for a late lunch venue after rejecting the idea of a 40minute wait at Wahaca (!), I took a punt on Terriors again. A perfect late lunch venue, there was space at the bar which we snapped up - as I was eager to try this place before my departure for the Indian Sub-Continent.

Phew - we were in.

The menu is dotted with a broad range of Gallic inspired dishes - piperade basquise, clams with aioli, a stunning French charcuterie range, duck scratchings (?) of which we chose 4 small plates. A succinct puds selection featuring the first rhubarb of the season on a panna cota which was perfectly wobbly.

With a terribly relaxed service, to the point where the chef took our order... we were relaxed enough not to be too annoyed, and happy to have had a chance to experience the hype.

Shame I am leaving the country, but hopefully it rise above the credit crisis until my return.

Pork Butchery Class

This is the third butchery course I have taken at the Ginger Pig under the tutelage of Borat and Perry – this time it was pork having already taken the beef and lamb editions. The courses feature lots of hands on experience, crucial when getting to grips with where muscles and bones of the animal are placed.


Beginning with the farming practices used to rear the rare breads of pigs on their 4 farms, we learnt about different types of fat, how they make their renowned sausages (albeit brief as there is indeed a sausage making course too) and the differences between organic and free range pork husbandry.


Eager to get into chopping up the meat, we moved over to the butchers block as one lucky student was tasked with lifting half a pig off the hook onto the bench. Wanting to be at the heart of the action, I got a little too close and was surprisingly smacked in the face with the pigs’ trotter. After we’d chuckled about the dangers of handling pigs we began to identify the different pork cuts, taking turns to hack, chop and slice our way through 3 sides of pork.

Being hands on is the most efficient way to learn, so for the end of the session created a porchetta roasting joint from a section of pork loin to take home. Removing and scoring the back fat for crackling, then prizing the bones from the precious loin meat we each concentrated on not slicing our fingers with the sharp boning knifes. Smothering handfuls of salt, pepper, fennel seed and garlic pulp to the flesh, the back fat was then tied back in place with masterful butchers knots (after half a dozen attempts... I wish they would run knot tutorials!)

Whilst we had been butchering away, Borat had been roasting a porchetta for us to devour with a well earned glass of wine. Accompanied with potatoes roasted in beef dripping we devoured the meal as we swapped hearty foodie stories on road kill butchery and wild boar hunting – not for the faint hearted!

So, the weekend has forced a Saturday supper of porchetta (although enough to serve about 6, we’ll be enjoying leftovers all week) roasted to perfection with cracking crackling. Only the sausage course to go and I graduate from the Ginger Pig School of Butchery – maybe an apprenticeship next?

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Barrafina

A friend of mine - lets call her EG - landed an awesome job working on Soho square, and being the foodie that she is, quickly scouted for the best places to eat locally. Round the corner from Soho sqaure is Barrafina an authentic tapas bar specialising in seafood and charcuterie.

Gluten free options abound, with grilled langoustines, pan fried clams with garlic and parsely, packed tortilla, perky salads and and thats not including the meats... and because they have the confidence in their cooking and ingredients, they can cater for special needs people like me!

The hunt for the perfrect cappucino

Coffee is an acquired taste, and a very personal one at that. With the myriad of ways that you can take your black gold it can be overwhelming when you just want a simple well made cappuccino.

I will state now my dislike of Starbucks coffee - too gimmicky, too much froth. Also, I am sad to say that Pret have started to make the coffee half froth, half drink - although I have found Caffe Nero to be a little improved of late.

You see, I was spoilt as a student. As is often the case with student accommodation we were located in the most affluent and cosmopolitan area of Sheffield known as Eccessal Road. Lined with independent clothes shops, pubs, bars and restaurants the students of the area happily spend their overdrafts in the boozers, however I used to like Nonna's.

Nonna's is an Italian deli, restaurant and coffee shop although 10 years ago is was a slightly more modest affair. Having been whipped off to Umbria in Italy within six months of meeting Jack, I quickly developed a taste for all things Italian and we found Nonna's to be full of authentic charm and on our doorstep. Perfect for a late night coffee perched at their marble bar.

Nonna's and my frequent trips to Italy introduced me to the world of proper cappuccinos. A small drink, three quarters coffee, one quarter of thick, rich foam - not airy and puffed up a la Starbucks. A nifty trick of dusting with cocoa before pouring the foam ensures a perfect delivery.

Since living in London, I have been on the search for a Nonna coffee, and after six years of living here I thought I might share a few of my finds...

• Foyles - Coffee at Rays Jazz - listen to the jazz whilst sipping rocket fuel espresso

• Monmouth Coffee - London institution for those in the know. Great Sally Clarke truffles in winter for that extra buzz
  
• Green & Blue - a dark and bustley place any time of the day - accompanied with fabulous independent wines by the glass
  
• Bar Italia - the Soho original
• Flat White - New Zealand owned coffee shop with friendly staff and the flat white (proper cappuccino to you and me)

I have a number of places that I also want to check out, so will endeavour to expand this list as I find them....but any recommendations, let me know.

oooooooooooooo Ottolenghi

En route home last night I jumped off the bus in South Kensington to browse the shops for a couple of gifts. That search was rather unsuccessful, however I was fortunate to discover Ottolenghi instead.

There has been a lot of buzz about the London based cafe and recently published cookbook and I have kept an eye on their column in the Saturday Guardian as naturally gluten free recipes have often been featured. So, walking through down Kensington Church street, I saw the subtle sign for the cafe and decided to pop in for a browse.

A browse turned into a purchase. A cake purchase - a gluten free cake purchase. Actually, I need to be specific here; the cake was a dense rich flour less chocolate cake, made with that indispensible coelaic favourite - ground almonds. Talking with the delightful staff member, we decided that it was naturally gluten free, and I decided to risk it.

Actually, risk is probably the wrong word. I only really take the chance when I trust the producers and have discussed at length ingredients used. Ottolenghi is a natural and high end operation, and I trust them when they say there is no gluten present. After much deliberation over dense chocolate macaroons, monstrous raspberry meringues, gooey chocolate torte, I opted for the flour less chocolate bun...

On getting it home I have to admit it looked a little dry...but my oh my, it was moist, chocolate-y, dense, rich and not too sweet. It was so good that I decided to save half of it for pudding today! I can't wait.

Ottolenghi dealing with natural and gluten free products with pure elegance which has inspired me to order their book - however my main motivation for yet another cookery book purchase is their recipe for the polenta cake!

Sharp knives and supper

This Christmas I had received a virtual voucher for a cooking course of my choice and I had been searching for a class I really wanted to do. So, last night I ventured into the Marylebone Ginger Pig shop after hours to attend a lamb butchery class.

In the name of eating good local food, but unable to justify a humongous budget for it, I am enjoying learning how to be thrifty. An introduction to the cheaper and tastier cuts by Hugh Fernley Whittingstall’s Meat book, I was looking to learn more about the subject; what part of the animal different cuts come from and how best to cook them, with the ultimate aim of buying great value for money local meat. The course was an incredible insight into the work and skill put into getting a simple lamb chump steak onto the plate and I will be returning to absorb even more from both their beef and pork sessions.

Unlike many courses, this one was really hands on – more than I expected when we were playing around with expensive rare breed meat - and I went home with dried blood under my nails to prove it. With only 6 per class, it was an intimate evening with Perry and Borut, two butchers who between them have 45 years experience in slicing and dicing meat. In typical butcher style, it was a light hearted evening with plenty of banter at the token girl’s expense, but there was a serious undertone of respect for the animals about to be butchered and the safe handling of deadly knives and saws.

Borut began the evening talking us about the three Ginger Pig Yorkshire farms, explaining how they control as much of the process as possible, from growing their own animal feed to selling it in their own shops, and hopefully to the point of building their own abattoir. Many mysterious butchery terms were uncovered, and we learnt that male and female lambs over 1 year are called hogget, and female lambs over 2 years are mutton. Unfortunately the boys are surplus to requirements after their reproductive duties – it is a woman’s world after all!

Talking over with, we moved to the butchers block to watch Perry expertly segment the first of the lambs. The beautiful dark marbled meat that was strangely dry but soft (due to the breed selected) was turned into recognisable cuts with admirable precision, ease and speed. Helping us to understand what part of the animal each part comes from, the group talked through the wealth of names used for different cuts and parts, the lambs anatomy gradually starting to make sense.

Then it was time to get stuck in as we each took a turn at removing the legs, belly, and shoulders using the company’s favoured continental butchery style of “seaming”, working with the natural seams in the meat to preserve the muscle quality. As I found out when removing the shoulders from the ribcage, much of this requires brut force and could be indicator to why most butchers are blokes.

More hands on experience, this time preparing a roasting joint by de-boning and rolling our own shoulder of lamb. Watching Perry pull out three clean shoulder bones, roll and secure it with terrifying ease…how was I ever to repeat that? I asked.

Surprisingly, once I got used to working with the tip of the knife against the bone, and looking for the natural seams, despite being one of the last to remove my bones, I got there. For some of the class, the real mystery came with tying the butchers’ knots, and thankfully my inner Girl Guide shone through meaning I was not last to complete. (Yes, there is alway an elemnent of competition!)

Finishing the evening with a delicious simple supper of slow cooked shoulder of lamb on the bone, and a well deserved glass of red, we chatted until the wine bottle was empty. I then hopped in the cab laden with my not so perfectly rolled shoulder of lamb, complete with bones to make stock at the weekend.

Happy Christmas!

Gone fishing....

I love markets – particularly food markets, although I do love to rummage through a good flea market when the opportunity arises. There is something unique about the energy and atmosphere generated by a collection of people selling their wares that makes the whole experience more colourful and fun. Maybe I am just an old romantic with images of quaint French men selling “fromage” on the streets of Paris… Personally though, the lure of interaction with people whose knowledge and experience can turn for example a randomly purchased pork knuckle, into one of the best meals I have had, is just simply irresistible.

Since writing my article for Time Out London on local fish I have come to understand the raft of value for money suppers that can be made from local, seasonal fish. Standing on pelagic trawler (fishing boat to you and me) in the choppy Thames Estuary I very quickly understood how little I knew about the subject, so I booked myself onto a course at Billingsgate Fish Market.

On this occasion I wasn’t there to learn how to prepare and cook the fish, although they do have a wonderful collection of fish cookery courses based at the market that I will be following up on - I was there to satisfy my love of markets with a tour.

Billingsgate is the largest inland fish market in the country and caters to both the general public and restaurant trade – so you too can grab yourself some amazingly priced fish, although with the market only open from 5-8am, you have to be early to get the good stuff. Housed in a purpose built building since the 1980’s, the fish market sits in the shadows of Canary Wharf on the waters of the dock, a no less grand, but definitely more modern location than its previous setting near London Bridge since 1850.

The tour began rather early at 6.15am, when the market was already in full swing, and our intimate group of five were shown round by Barry from the Worshipful Company of Fishmongers. As I remember, he was responsible for quality at the market, so certainly knew a bad fish when he saw one.

First off we were shown the crucial points to look for when buying fresh fish. Barry pulled a huge farmed salmon onto the table to demonstrate the qualities we should be looking for using a nose to tail approach. Some great tips that I picked up were:

• Eyes should be bright and clear, like glass – not cloudy
• Look into the gills to check their colour. They should be bright red in most fish.
• Look inside the belly if it has been gutted and make sure it is cleaned out
• Fish are naturally slimy – not wet. Fish have a natural slime over their whole body that protects them from parasites and also makes them impossible to pick up.

In pelagic species (fish that swim near the surface of the sea – I just learnt that!) this will be thin slime. For fish that live nearer the seabed such as Dover sole as in the picture above, it will be like snot. Honest! Imagine Slimmer from the Ghostbusters films – just like that! Slime is a good thing though as this is a naturally occurring layer over the fish which prevents the caught fish’s flesh from deteriorating….so look for slimy fish!

(Apparently the supermarkets and some fishmongers wash off the slime since customers don’t like it, so that’s why they have to spray them with water to keep them looking fresh).

The group was then guided round some of the stalls where Roy talked through a raft of fish species such as Hake, Dover and lemon sole, halibut, brill, tuna, cod, pollack, sea bass, mackrel, sprats and herrings. We were bombarded with information about the species, their quality (pointing out ones that were past their best – providing great examples of what not to buy!), cooking tips and how they were caught.

In addition to this, we covered shellfish, looking at the various prawns for sale, learning the difference between native and Canadian lobsters, rope grown and wild mussels, and about hand dived, dredged, soaked and dry scallops. (There is not enough space here to mention everything I learnt, but scallops was the particularly interesting subject. Short story – don’t buy “soaked” supermarket scallops!)

After shellfish we moved onto smoked fish, where we enjoyed a sneaky taste of kiln smoked salmon whilst being talked through hot and cold smoking processes used for the sprats, kippers and haddock on view.

Phew…

Then last, but by no means least we came to this huge chest of metal drawers…..

any ideas what's inside...

...Live eels!

So, with numb feet and a memory full of fish, we headed back for a cup of coffee to thaw out. Dashing off after big thanks for Barry, I dived into the car and headed off to work high on all the knowledge I had acquired in just 2 hours and so early in the morning! Amazing!

Learning to write

Back in September 2007, I began a course that I had umm’ed and ahh’ed about for a while, not sure if it was another faddy interest of mine. I have always been a bit of a nerd, and remember spending a whole Easter holiday as a teenager hiding away in my mums’ bedroom (away from the distractions of my own) with piles of folders, text books and notes studying for my exams. Secretly I absolutely loved it, and a few years on I openly admit to loving books, researching and learning. I get a real thrill from absorbing information from the “experts” and eagerly search the internet and events listings for something interesting – and let’s admit usually related to food.

So the course I started last year was an evening course in Food and Drink Journalism at City University. Given my then, recent diagnosis with coeliac disease and having just left work in the corporate food world, it seemed a timely moment to peruse other career opportunities, doing something I enjoyed.

The course is currently run by Lulu Grimes from Olive Magazine and Guy Dimond the food and drink editor at Time Out, and it has to be said that it was one of the best course I have taken. The content was varied, covering restaurant reviews, recipe writing, blogging, drinks writing, cookery book publishing, radio journalism, all dotted with visits from guest speakers, including Richard Erlich who writes for Good Housekeeping and Time Out and the producer of the fabulous Radio 4 Food Programme.

As part of the course there was a fair amount of homework – something I always secretly thrive on – and one such piece was to pitch and write a feature, which would then make up that terms class magazine. This process of pitching and writing was supported by some incredibly detailed and valuable feedback, and I have to admit to loving every second of the writing. Anyway, to cut what could be a very long story short, after the final submission of my feature, at the bottom of the page, Guy asked if I would be interested in working on the piece a bit more, to get it published.

Did he need to ask? Did he think I would say “nah, you’re alright thanks”?

I couldn’t believe what I was reading!

Guy thought this was good enough for publication? You can imagine my yelps of woohoos!


So, here it is. Six full months after beginning a course that I thought would just keep me occupied on some cold Monday nights, it actually led me to being a published! It was the most incredible experience, full of the highs and lows that come with learning something new, and I learnt more than I ever could have imagined. To read the article, click on the link below:


Time out - Fishing in the Thames

In the spirit of life long learning, I always welcome (constructive) feedback, so feel free to drop me a line to let me know what you think.

I hope you learn something too.